Viva Colonia!

Although we arrived in Germany a day late, our spirits were high and we were ready to celebrate Christmas German style – and that meant Christmas market fun. The Weihnachtsmarkt is a product of Germany, starting in the late middle ages, and traditionally taking place during the four weeks of Advent. While I studied abroad in Cologne I was struck by the markets and their ability not only to draw in millions of tourists but also how they were incorporated into the typical December days and nights of the local Kölle.

Cologne hosts seven Christmas markets, four of which are the most popular. We visited three of these, at the Kölner Dom, Alter Markt (including Heumarkt), and Neumarkt. The most impressive of the markets is generally considered to be the Kölner Dom Markt as it takes place in the shadow of the famous Cologne Cathedral. Here we celebrated the coming of Christmas with Gluehwein in the annual Kölner Dom mugs.

We only had a day and a half to pack in a full Cologne experience. My host family, the Kutschkes, saved decorating their Christmas tree until we arrived. Traditionally the living room is closed off to the children while the parents decorate the tree as a surprise. The children are told that the Christkind, or Christ Child, decorated the tree. However on this evening the boys (now all grown up and proud that they are each taller than me) helped and we discovered that tangled lights, uneven tree stands, and the attempt to cover up holes in boughs with oversized ornaments are universal Christmas practices.

On our second, and last, day in Cologne we visited the Römisch-Germanisches Museum. In 1941 the famous Dionysus mosaic was discovered while a bunker was being dug and the city eventually built a museum upon this Roman villa foundation. Found in excellent condition, the mosaic floor, which was the dining room of the villa, had its first dinner guests since the third century when Bill Clinton, Tony Blair, and Gerhard Schröder dined upon it in 1999. The museum holds the collections of the many archaeological digs conducted in Cologne concerning its rich Roman history.

A climb to the top of the cathedral is always a must on a visit to Cologne. I couldn’t quite determine if I was in better or worse shape than the last time I scaled the over 500 steps to gain access to the second tallest church spires in the world. Cathedral construction started in 1248 in order to provide an appropriate pilgrimage site for the bones of the three kings, which were brought to Cologne in 1164. Always a beloved aspect of my time spent in Cologne, I was excited to share the cathedral with Kevin, who enjoyed trying out his new camera on the picturesque climb.

A visit to the Käthe Kollwitz Museum rounded out our day. A very influential artist during my social conscious development, Kollwitz worked as a printmaker, painter, and sculptor during the tumultuous turn of the century and both world wars in Germany. A pacifist, Kollwitz worked to spotlight anti-war campaigns. The museum in Neumarkt was a favorite quiet spot during my time in Cologne and we were lucky to find it open late that day.

Although a quick trip to Germany, I made sure Kevin had his full share of German culinary classics. We had traditional breakfast each day of special breads and fresh rolls with butter, cheeses, and cold meats. We were treated to typical Kölsch meatballs by my host mother upon our arrival and that night enjoyed a homemade meal of bratwurst, potatoes, and vegetables. I made sure to visit Früh am Dom for Jagerschnitzel, Sauerbraten, Bratkartoffeln, Klößen, and of course Kölsch, beer brewed in Cologne since the middle ages. Our last evening we were stuffed with Rievkooche, a Kölsch potato pancake dipped in sweet syrup or apple sauce, homemade by my host mother.

In less than two days we were able to visit three Christmas markets twice, the Kölner Dom, two museums, the town hall, one archaeological dig site, walk along with Rhein River, ride a Ferris wheel, gain ten pounds each, and experience 2,000 years of history.